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The Many Colors of Sapphires

There is a common misconception that sapphires only come in the color blue, however this could not be further from the truth! The wonderful world of sapphires is colorful and vast – these stones can come in virtually every color of the rainbow.

Sapphires allow you to have something that is completely unique and one of a kind, as no one sapphire is the same as the next. The vast array of choice in terms of color means that you can always find something that fits your specific style.

One of the most incredible things about sapphires is that, if untreated, their intense color can be completely natural. Our team works with sapphires everyday and we are all astounded by what nature can create!

In this post we will show you all the different hues that sapphires can come in. If you want to dive deeper into the topic and learn about how color effects value and the science behind the colors, you can download our E-book, “The Colorful World Of Sapphires,” here.

Blue Sapphires

Everyone knows that sapphires come in the color blue. In fact, they are considered one of the more traditional colored sapphires. The most notable producer of fine blue sapphires is Sri Lanka or “Ceylon” as referred to within the trade (Ceylon was the former name of the country). They can also be found in Madagascar, Kashmir and Nigeria, among other places.

Pink Sapphires

Pink is one of the more popular colors when it comes to sapphires, and for good reason! These incredible stones come in an array of hues from light, pastel pink to vibrant hot pink – and everything in between. Pink sapphires are most popularly found in Sri Lanka, Myanmar and East Africa.

Yellow Sapphires

Yellow sapphires can be found in Thailand, Australia, Tanzania and Madagascar. However, Sri Lanka is the primary source for these beautiful stones. The most sought after yellow color for a yellow sapphire is known as canaray, which is a medium, vibrant tone.

Green Sapphires

Green sapphires are mined in several continents, however, Sri Lanka produces the rarest green sapphires — often featuring a vibrant green color. On occasion, green sapphires can be confused with emeralds, however there is quite a big difference between the two. Emerald rank lower on Moh’s Scale of Hardness, meaning they are more susceptible to scratches and chipping. Sapphires on the other hand have a rating of 9, meaning that they are strong enough to withstand everyday wear without being damaged.

Bi-Color Sapphires

Bi-color sapphires are stones that contain two different colors, which occurs through color zoning. Color zoning is when conditions of the trace elements change during the crystal formation. These gemstones can range from dra- matic color zoning with two very different colors present in the stone, to slight color zoning which shows two very similar, but slightly off colors in one stone.

Teal Sapphires

Teal sapphires contain two of nature’s most majestic colors: deep ocean blue and vivacious green. Strictly speaking gemologically, teal sapphires don’t exhibit color change under different sources of light. However, their reflection patterns in natural and artificial lights produce a partial, subtle change.

Color Changing Sapphires

Color change sapphires are stones that exhibit different colors in different lighting conditions, giving you two very exciting colors under the right conditions. When gem experts judge Color-changing sapphires, they rank the color change as weak, moderate, or strong. The strength of the stone’s color change is the most important quality factor affecting its value, followed then by the actual color of the stone.

Purple Sapphires

Purple sapphires are sometimes referred to as violet or lavender, and are slightly less common than other colors. They come in a beautiful range of purple tones, and because of this, they rarely have the need for color enhancing treatments.

Black Sapphires

Black sapphire is a nearly opaque stone whose color is so dark that it appears to absorb all light that enters the gemstone. Because of their deep hue, black sapphires do not reflect light as well as other colored sapphires. However, they are still an incredibly striking and unique choice in stone for any style of jewellery.

Peach Sapphires

Peach sapphires hold a very special place within the category of unique and rare sapphires. They have an array of hues, ranging from pinker tones to orange tones. Clarity is a very important element for peach sapphires, as the light tones of pastel shades easily reveal inclusions. Any presence of cloudiness can dull the color and brilliance of the stone.

Orange Sapphires

Orange sapphires are quite rare, and are some of the most difficult sapphires to find in a natural, untreated state.Of all orange sapphires seen in the marketplaces of websites and jewellery stores, 99.99% will be treated with extreme heat to produce the vibrant orange color. That is why a natural, unheated orange sapphire is considered so rare.

Padparadscha Sapphires

Padparadscha sapphires are one of the rarest of sapphires, and contain a unique mix of orange and pink. With Padparadschas, a medium saturation is often more highly regarded, since these gems are expected to be pastel in color and tone.

Rubies

You may be wondering why rubies have made the list of colorful sapphires… well this is because rubies technically are a sapphire! Sapphires and rubies are made up of the same element called corundum. The only difference between the two is the color. When a corundum is red, it is classified as a ruby, and when it’s another color it is called a sapphire.

Grey & White Sapphires

White sapphires are completely colorless sapphires, where as grey sapphires are near colorless, with traces of black throughout. White sapphires can be used as an alternative to diamonds. They rank at an 9 on the Moh’s hardness scale, just below diamonds. 9 is still a high score and means that sapphires are durable enough for everyday wear.

Sourcing Sapphires

At Anpe Atelier, we are source our sapphires from our trusted gem traders in Sri Lanka, with whom we work together with everyday. This means that we are able to find sapphires in the exact color, tone and hue that you are looking for. Contact us to start the process!

If you are interested in learning more about the process of buying sapphires, then have a read through The Ultimate Sapphire Buying Guide!

The Ultimate Sapphire Buying Guide

Let’s Talk About Sapphires:

Sapphires tend to have a reputation of being a traditional royal blue gemstone used in classic or historic fine jewellery – however this is really not the case.

Sapphires come in an incredible and vast array of colors, hues and tones and are ranked almost as high on the Moh’s Hardness Scale as diamonds are. They make an excellent gemstone to use in fine jewellery due to their durability and lustrous appearance. They have been sought after for centuries and have been used within royal jewellery collections across the world. Sapphires can be commonly found across the world from regions such as Sri Lanka, Madagascar, Thailand, China, among other places.  

These unique stones come in every tone and color known, and unknown, to man. Once polished and cut, they become a truly one-of-a-kind, alluring stone that is ready to be added to a gorgeous design. 

Here is a quick blog post on what to look for when buying sapphires! Find and download the full booklet here.

Color, Color, Color!

Color is one of the most important aspects when it comes to choosing the sapphire that is right for you. 

What some people don’t realize is, sapphires come in all the colors of the rainbow – not just blue. 

All natural sapphires are truly incredible, as their colors naturally occur through the work of mother nature. A stone’s color is determined by the specific chemical makeup through the presenceof different trace elements, such as titanium or chronium.

The amazing thing about sapphires is that you will able to find any color with any specific shade, hue or tone that you are looking for! 

Clarity

A sapphire’s clarity grade refers to the relative absence of inclusions, fractures, and blemishes that affect its appearance and structural integrity. 

These are things that are stuck inside the sapphire and cause some sort of blemish to the look of the stone. 

Sapphires almost always have some sort of inclusion in them. Sometime these can be unseen to the naked eye and other times it can be easily visible without a magnifine glass.

When buying a sapphire you should try and look for something that has a good clarity grade, as well as being visually appealing to your own eye. 

Cut

Cut is the next important thing to look for when buying a sapphire. 

The cut is what allows the brilliance and beauty to pour through in a stone. It is important to view your sapphire in the light to see the varying facets and the symmetry with which it has been cut.

Gem cutters have an incredible way of creating facets and surfaces that optimise the quality of light that passes through each gemstone into your eyes.

There are many different cuts and shapes that sapphires come in. When buying your sapphire you should choose the cut that resonates best with you.

A sapphire’s cut truly comes down to what you like aesthetically. However, you should look for a cut that has precision, symmetry and quality in mind. The better the quality of cut, the brighter and sparklier the stone.

Carat

The size of a gemstone is generally measured by weight in the metric known as carats. A sapphire and a diamond’s weight are measured in the same way. 

Traditionally, when purchasing a loose gem, the cost is given as a per-carat price and as the weight of a carat increases, so does the cost.

When purchasing a sapphire, it is important to figure out what size you are looking for. 

Milestone weights, such as .25ct, .50ct, 1ct, etc, are the most popular sizes of stones.

When buying a sapphire, carat weight is important to think about because this will determine the size and price of the stone. Keep not only your aesthetic in mind, but also your budget.

Treatments

Treatments are used within the gemstone industry to change a specific trait of a stone. 

Heat treaments are one of the most common treatments. This alters the appearance of a sapphire’s color and quality. It removes inclusions and im- proves a sapphire’s hue and saturation. This affects a sapphire’s color grade, which could be considered one specific grade before treatment, but can jump up to a higher grade afterward.

An unheated sapphire is simply a sapphire that has not undergone this heat treatment, meaning the color and quality is of untreated origin. 

Other treatments include latice diffusion, which also artificially changes a stone’s color. 

A vast majority of the stones from Anpé Atelier are unheated and professional certificate is always provided which gives information on what exactly has or has not been done to the gemstone.

Overall, finding a sapphire that is treated or untreated is entirely up to you! It depends on whether you prefer to have a completely untreated stone or not. Either way, you are sure to end up with an incredibly beautiful sapphire.

Gemstones: From Rough to Polished

Nature’s Wonders

Working with loose gemstones plays a massive role of the jewellery design process at Anpé Atelier, especially when it comes to sourcing the perfect stone for a customized design. But what some people might not know is, gemstones don’t start out as the polished and sparkling things we see normally. In fact, they actually start out as a rock-like element that has to be meticulously assessed in order to be cut into the best shape and size in order to accentuate the stone’s fire and brilliance. Here are the main steps that a loose gemstone goes through:

Download and read the Gemstones: From Rough to Polished booklet here.

Gemstones in the Rough

Gemstones start off as rock-like elements, which makes the term “Sapphire in the rough,” a perfect description. Gemstones are formed underneath the earth’s surface predominantly through heating, cooling and high amounts of pressure. Diamonds, sapphires, rubies and other stones are found miles below the ground, and are pushed towards the surface through natural causes such as weathering, erosion and volcanic eruptions. It is in this way that humans are able create mines to dig up and find these beautiful stones.

Once the rough stones are found, they are sorted by shape and color and are ready to move on to the next step: pre-forming.

Gemstone Pre-Forming

After the gemstones are found, they go through a process called pre-forming.

For lapidaries, otherwise known as gem cutters, making each gemstone is a work of art. There is a precise way of thinking for gem cutters to figure out the best way to accentuate a stone’s prominent features. Preforming is
a part of the faceting process. It is the first step, where the rough stone is ground by hand on a series of wheels or flat laps to get an overall shape.

Polish and Facet

After preforming, the gem goes through a process of faceting. This is where we start to get the finished product! Gem cutters begin to create the intricate edges and lines that you see on gemstones, which brings out an incredibly unique sparkle and glimmer. It is fantastic to see the stones go from the pre-forming process to polished and faceted, because they go from matte and 2 dimensional to a clear and colorful 3 dimensional beauty.

The Finished Product!

After the entire process is finished, we are left with these stunning stones that are ready to be made into a ring, necklace, bracelet or pair of earrings! Customers are always shocked when they learn about the journey a gemstone goes through to get to the polished product, which is why we thought it was important to provide an in-depth booklet for you to learn about the process.

Determining the Value of a Gemstone: Sapphires, Tsavorites, Tourmalines and More.

Precious and semi-precious gemstone’s are fantastic stones to use in fine jewellery. They offer a vibrant color palette and a unique aesthetic to the designs they are placed into. Much like diamonds, there is a specific way in which these stones are valued. Determining the value of a gemstone comes down to factors such as color, cut, clarity, carat, as well as the rarity, hardness and pureness of the stones.

For a deep dive into the topic, download Anpé’s full Determining a Value of a Gemstone guide here!

Color

Color is one of the most important factors when determining the value of a colored gemstone. Gem cutters cut gemstones in a way that enhances and emphasises the best qualities of that individual stone, such as its luster, fire, and luminescence. Cutting them in a way that accentuates its natural color makes the stone more valuable.

There are four important elements that make up gemstone color:

Hue, saturation, tone and coverage.

Hue is the initial color of the stone. Sapphires, for example, come in virtually any color or tone you can think of. Some colors are more valuable than others, such as bi-color and color changing sapphires.

Coverage simply refers to the consistency and evenness of color throughout the stone.

Saturation is a stone’s brightness and intensity. This can range from dull to vivid. The more vibrant and saturated the stone, the higher the value.

A gem’s tone is the depth of color present within the stone, ranging from light to dark. Both light and dark tones of the same stone can have an equal value to each other.

Clarity

A gemstone’s clarity grade refers to the relative absence of inclusions, fractures, and blemishes that affect its appearance and structural integrity. These inclusions and blemishes are materials that are trapped inside the gem as well as surface imperfections, both of which vary due to the many ways gemstones form underground.

Gems with greater clarity are considered more valuable than gems of the same species with lower clarity, all other properties being equal. 

That being said, some inclusions can have positive effects, by bringing a unique aura to the stone.

One of the major exceptions to the rule of clarity comes about with emerald stones. Emeralds are incredibly prized throughout different cultures, but they are one of the gemstones that always occur with hints of other mineral traces in them. This is why you will see highly prized emeralds with some inclusions and flaws.

Cut

Gem cutters, also known as lapidaries, have a massive artistic ability, as they take rough gemstones (see image) and hand cut them into the sparkling beauties you see mounted in a finished design.

A quality cut takes the other Four C’s into account and enhances the stone’s best features, such as the hue, saturation and color tone. A professional lapidary will be able to look at an individual gemstone and be able to determine the best angles to cut to bring out the stone’s inherent beauty – and in doing so, bring it the most value.

All gemstones have a unique way in which they bend light (refraction) and bounce it to your eye (reflection), which is what makes them so eye catching.

Gem cutters have an incredible way of creating facets and surfaces that optimise the quality of light that passes through each gemstone into your eyes.

Carat

The size of a gemstone is generally measured by weight in the metric known as carats (1 carat is equal to 1/5 of a gram). Traditionally, when purchasing a loose gem, the cost is given as a per-carat price and as the weight of a carat increases, so does the cost.

Unfortunately, prices are not “set in stone”. For example, the cost of a 1ct. sapphire will not equally double if you have a 2ct. sapphire. This is because larger stones are typically rarer in nature. The rarer the stone, the more desirable and expensive it becomes.

Milestone Carat Weights, otherwise known as “magic sizes,” are quarter sizes of diamonds, such as .25ct, .50ct, 1ct, etc. These popular sizes are generally easier to refer to, therefore making them higher in demand. But what is so “magical” about them? Well, the price magically jumps once a stone reaches the next quarter carat. 

Rarity

Rarity is one of the most prized qualities of gemstones and is another major factor that determines the price for different minerals. Gemstones that are produced in fewer regions across the world in smaller quantities are generally worth more.

For example, finding a padparadscha sapphire over the weight of 2 carats is a real rarity, and can even surpass the price of a diamond in similar size.

Gemstones, just like other products and resources, have a supply and demand relationship. For example, the most common gem-grade corundum is the blue sapphire. Sapphires come in all the colors of the rainbow, with certain colors rarer than blues. This might make you wonder why blue sapphires are so valuable, and the answer is because traditionally, many people desire deep blue sapphires over yellow or green ones. It is that exact demand that drives up the price of blue sapphires.

Hardness

Hardness refers to the durability of your gemstone. More importantly, it measures how difficult or easy it is to scratch the surface of the stone. The hardness of a gemstone is measured using the Mohs Scale of Hardness, rated on a scale from 1 to 10.

The reason this is important to determining a gemstone’s value is because specific minerals may not interact positively with the environment around you. 

For example, diamond and corundum (sapphires and rubies) rank highest on the scale, between 9 and 10. This means that these gemstones are resilient and great for everyday wear, so long as you take care of them properly. A calcite or fluorite gemstone, however, ranks 3 to 4 on the scale, meaning they scratch fairly easily, thus making the appearance seem dull and used after a time. Ultimately, the higher up on the Mohs Scale, the higher the value of the stone.

Treatments

Gemstones are altered as soon as they come from the ground in their rough form and are cut and polished to become the wonderful stones we see in our jewellery today. But there are a number of treatments that are used to change the color and clarity of a gemstone.

Heating and oiling are common treatments to artificially change and improve the color and clarity of stones.

When a gemstone is noted as “unheated”, this means that the color and clarity are completely natural. Untreated stones are often of higher value because they are less common within the industry. In the image on the side is a natural, unheated bi color sapphire, which is incredibly rare in nature.

A vast majority of the stones from Anpé Atelier are unheated and a professional certificate is always provided which gives information on what exactly has or has not been done to the gemstone.

All About Anpé Atelier: How Do We Work?

Anpé Atelier Cph is a small, woman run business based in Copenhagen, Denmark. You can read more about my background and why I started Anpé here, but today I wanted to talk about how the business works. More specifically, how the bespoke process works, appointments and pop up meetings, as well as the delivery times, sustainablity and how our gems are sourced.

We are two women working in the Anpé Atelier showroom, which is located on Holbergsgade 26, just next to beautiful Nyhavn. It is me and my part-time marketing assistant, Poppy, who is from New York. Anpé is different from most brands, because we are quite small, but this is a blessing in disguise. Being a smaller business allows me to be more personal with my clients and allows for me to create the best fine jewellery experience possible.

Here is some more information and commonly asked questions that I can now answer for you:

The Bespoke Process:

Bespoke jewellery design makes up for a majority of my work at Anpé Atelier and I absolutely love it. Sketching new designs is one of the first things that got me crazy about jewellery in the first place.

The bespoke designs have a very personalised approach which customers seem to enjoy. Each inquiry I get about a customized piece I take very seriously, and I start off by discussing what that person is looking for, whether it be an engagement ring, a push present, a treat yourself ring, and more.

These are the general steps: Together, we source the perfect gemstone that fits your exact want. Next, I sketch the design you had in mind and we go back and forth and fix and add whatever you have in mind. Once you have chosen your design, it is sent out to be processed into a computer graphic design. After you approve, the design is sent to be handmade by our 4 goldsmiths in Sri Lanka.

Lastly, I will receive your piece from Sri Lanka, and I will send over a quick sneak peek just to make sure you 100% approve of it. Once approved by you, it is ready to be shipped off for you to cherish and enjoy! Here is a more detailed blog post on the process.

Appointments & Pop Up Meetings:

Appointments in the Showroom: Appointments can be booked in our showroom through Instagram DM, e-mail or phone. I am available throughout the week and on the weekends for meetings. You can expect to have all of the pieces from our collections, as well as the stock of gemstones we have, present for you to browse through. Together we can discuss your jewellery dreams and create the exact design you are thinking of.

Pop Up Meetings: I host pop up meetings in different cities abroad, where I travel with our Anpé stock to meet customers who can’t make it to Copenhagen. I always post time and place on our social media, and booking happens on a first come, first serve basis. If you know already now, that you want Anpé to come to your city, you can always e-mail me, and I’ll put you on a list to make sure you’ll know as the first, if we come to your city..

For pop up meetings, customers have to make an appointment, where again, we can have one on one time to talk about what you are looking for.

The reason I do it this way is so that I can give you my undivided attention and create an atmosphere where we can talk about the pieces, where you can try everything on with the amount of time you need. I always want to make sure I give my customers the best customer service and personalised experience, so that everyone can leave happy and satisfied.

Delivery Times:

Delivery times from Anpé Atelier vary from other businesses, this is because the pieces are handmade and one of a kind and produced for the individual customer. We have three different ranges, all of which have differing delivery times.

The Classic Complexity range: This range is handmade and all of the designs are completely unique. The designs can be recreated, however they will never look exactly the same as the first because larger sapphires and other gemstones are incredibly individual to one another. Delivery for this collection ranges from 5-10 days, if everything is in stock and in your size. We can have the ring changed to your size, however it might add on a few days.

The Scandinavian Simplicity range: The pieces in the Scandinavian Simplicity Collection is made per order – that means that when you place the order, we will create the specific piece for you. That usually takes 4-5 weeks. However, if you or you’re loved ones are a size 52-53, we often have one in stock in that size. 

Bespoke Designs: Every single piece of Anpé jewellery is open for customization as well as can be customized from scratch. Creating a customized piece can take time, as it all depends on how fast we can find the perfect gemstone for you. Please send an e-mail, if you’re looking to create a customized piece, because the delivery time varies greatly.

How We Source Gemstones:

I travelled to Sri Lanka before I started Anpé Atelier, and it was a truly life changing experience. It was the main inspiration for beginning a jewellery brand, and that is because I was introduced to the beautiful and colorful sapphires and other gemstones that are naturally sourced there.

I have formed a very close business relationship with gem traders and goldsmiths who I continue to work with and speak to every single day. It was important to me that I was working with people and companies that have a sustainable and fair mind set.

All of our gemstones are handpicked and comes directly from the mines. The gemstones are mainly from mines in Sri Lanka and Madagascar owned by our very close collaborator – in this way we secure that the gemstones are ethically mined and under good conditions for the people working there.

Sustainability:

Sustainability is not just a hot word we use for marketing purposes. It is truly something that we believe in.

What makes Anpé Atelier sustainable is that we are partial to slow fashion, which means we want to design things that people can wear for long periods of time, as opposed to just something you wear for a season and throw away.

Each item is made per order, and therefor, that means that there isn’t a huge pile of stock laying around. This ensures that there is no sense of overproduction or wasted resources, in terms of the jewellery, labor and transportation.

We work solely with solid gold and gemstones – this secures that the jewellery is of high quality and will never perish and can be passed on through generations.

Conflict Free Diamonds:

Some may not know this, but making sure your diamonds are conflict free is incredibly important. Conflict free diamonds are diamonds that is mined and shipped without connections to rebel or terror groups. These diamonds often originate in war torn areas, which horrendous working conditions for miners and are then illegally traded.

Conflict free diamonds are mined safely and follow a process that prevents any societal or environmental harm.

All diamonds used in Anpé Atelier designs are conflict free.

Anpé Atelier x Anna Winck – The Collection

-The Inspiration-

Working with Anna was something that made complete sense; her effortlessly chic and colorful style matches everything that Anpé Atelier personifies within our brand and designs.

This collaboration embodies a unique and colorful aesthetic born of honest beauty and inspired design.

The Anna x Anpé collaboration empowers elegance, femininity with edginess. It illuminates, with color splashed throughout. The mini collection was co-designed by Anna with curvy, asymmetrical lines. A recurrent theme in Anna’s personal style, these designs affirm that true beauty need not be perfectly polished; rather, you can be playful, distinct and express yourself authentically. 

Anna’s style is a huge part of her personality, and there’s nothing she does better than mixing and matching vivacious pieces. Her inspiration comes from anywhere and everywhere. 

“I wanted to find something that felt like a good mix of me and Anpé Atelier by taking a part of Sweden’s minimalisme and Denmark’s colorful designs. Color is my daily way of expressing myself and therefore these 3 little loves are decorated in green, blue, pink, champagne and orange.”

Anna Winck

This collection is here to say; there is infinite beauty in being different, in being unique, in being creative, and in being asymmetrical.

We hope you enjoy it just as much as we do,

Line & Anna

Read more about Anna’s life, style and inspiration here!


Anna Winck earrings

These asymmetrical waves are perfectly complemented by classic diamonds and colorful gemstones. This design is the ideal mixture of edgy and delicate.  14kt. yellow gold. 20 VS1 diamonds with 6 sapphires and 2 tsavorites.

Anna Winck ring

Perfectly imperfect. A combination of sapphires, tsavorites and diamonds on a 14 kt asymmetrical wave band. The wave band creates an effortlessly chic aura. It perfectly compliments more traditional jewellery pieces, as well as it is stackable, but it also makes a statement when being worn alone.

Anna Winck necklace

This crescent necklace is the perfect cluster of brilliant diamonds and vivid sapphires, and creates for a truly eye catching design. The sapphires are scattered throughout to create an asymmetrical, yet balanced, look. 14kt. yellow gold pendant. 13 VS1 diamonds with 4 sapphires and 1 tsavorite. Chain is in 18kt yellow gold and measures 45 cm.

Anpé Color of the Month- Green

Anpé Atelier is all about colors, which is why a majority of our designs have incredible gemstones with a unique color to them. We are always stunned when sourcing our stones that these wonderful colors could be created solely through nature. Colors are so important to us, that we wanted to highlight a specific color for each and every month. For the month of September we have chosen green as that color!

Green is the ultimate symbol for nature. It symbolizes harmony, growth and fertility. It is truly one of our favorite colors to work with, as the stone can come in an array of green hues, from a mint, baby green or teal, to fluorescent or dark forrest green.

Here are some of our favorite green designs:

Anpé Atelier Green Designs

Peya ring

18kt. yellow gold. Unheated natural bicolor sapphire and VS1 diamonds.

Shop here

Jamie earrings

14 kt. yellow gold and 2 natural green tsavorites.

Shop here

Trine Ji Green ring

14kt yellow gold with 10 green tsavorites.

Shop here

Varnaya Bahu ring

18kt. yellow gold. Natural unheated pink, red and green sapphires and a VS diamond.

Shop here

Tanakola ring

18kt. yellow gold. Natural green sapphire and VS1 diamonds.

Shop here

Minti ring

18kt. yellow gold. Unheated natural green tsavorite and VS1 diamonds.

Shop here

Green Stack

A ring stack made from 14kt. gold with tsavorites and VS diamonds.

Shop here

Malene Emerald ring

14 kt. yellow gold and 1 natural emerald 3.5mm.

Shop here

Hima Kola ring

18kt. yellow gold. Natural teal sapphire and VS1 diamonds.

Shop here

Harita ring

18kt. white gold. Unheated natural green tsavorite and diamonds.

Shop here

Boho Varna ring

18kt. yellow gold. Natural bi-color sapphire and VS1 diamonds.

Shop here

The Many Different Cuts and Shapes of Gemstones

Some of the most important things when it comes to choosing a piece of fine jewellery is deciding on the specific cut and shape of the gemstone. This can be both exciting and overwhelming, as there are many different variations to chose from.

Gemstones aren’t found as the polished, sparkly things you see when you buy jewellery. In fact, they start off as rough and unpolished, and only after the cutting and polishing process, do they turn into how we normally see them. Cutting gives the stones a specific shape and allows the real color and brilliance to emerge, while polishing adds all the sparkles, rays and dimensions to the gem.

A gem cutter, otherwise known as a lapidary, gives much thought to how they cut and shape the stones. By doing so, they are working to enhance the best qualities of the stone, such as the color and brilliance.

Here is our list of traditional gemstone cuts and shapes:

Asscher Cut

The Asscher cut, otherwise known as the Square Emerald cut, is a combination of a princess and emerald cut. A recognizable “X” is formed in the gemstone’s table and features cropped corners along its sides as well as layered facets. This cut allows the true clarity of the stone to come out.

An example is the Tanakola Teal ring.

Baguette Cut

This cut was created in the 1920’s, during the Art Deco period. The baguette cut is long and rectangular in shape, featuring clean lines o create a geometric and modern look. Stones in this cut are regularly used as accent stones in jewellery and are cut to maximize clarity.

Source your Baguette cut stone here

Cushion Cut

This style is also referred to as Pillow cut, for the softness the cut invokes. The cushion cut has gently rounded corners and holds around 64 facets. Most gemstones have a standardized cut, whereas the cushion cut can have more variety. There are two main categories this cut can fall into: standard cushion cut and modified cushion cut. A standard cut has the classic, fiery look. The modified cut focuses on adding extra facets, which creates what’s known as the “crushed ice” look, which brings out the brilliance of the stone.

An example of cushion shape and cut is the Sarala ring.

Emerald Cut

The Emerald cut was originally designed solely for emerald gem stones, however, now it is used for diamonds, sapphires and more. This cut flaunts an elongated, rectangular shape, trimmed corners and straight linear facets, although can be found in a square shape as well. The Emerald cut intends to emphasize clarity and color, and can actually make the stone appear bigger than it really is.

Shop Anduru ring.

Oval Cut

The Oval cut was created in the 1950’s, and is similar to a round cut, as both emphasize the fire (color) and brilliance, however the Oval cut has a different, longer shape. The elongated shape creates an illusion of a larger stone and makes the wearer’s fingers look long and delicate.

See the oval cut sapphire in the Alokaya ring.

Pear Cut

The Pear cut first dates back to 1458 and has a shape of a gleaming tear drop. This cut reflects light beautifully, and allows the stone’s color to showcase dramatically. This stone shape has a similar faceting structure to round brilliant cuts which brings the ultimate sparkle to the stone.

Shop Mutu Kola ring.

Princess Cut

The Princess cut is the second most popular cut in the diamond and gemstone market, behind the Round Brilliant cut. The diamonds on the side of this yellow sapphire are a princess cut. They are square in shape and have between 58-76 facets, making it incredibly sparkly.

Source your Princess cut here.

Radiant Cut

Radiant cuts are a mesh of the Princess and Cushion cut, and was created in the 1970s. A modern and square shape is created after cropping the edges, instead of rounding the edges, like a Cushion cut.

Shop Nalaya ring.

Round Cut

The Round cut, otherwise known as the Round Brilliant cut, is the most popular cut in the diamond and gemstone industry. The stone is round in shape, and the facets are cut in a way to optimize the dispersion of light throughout the stone.

An example is the Hima Ayis ring.

Trillion Cut

Trillion cuts come in a triangular shape, with rounded edges. It is a type of round brilliant cut, where brilliance and color are maximized. Symmetry and angles are very important for this cut, as light needs to be nicely dispersed with such a unique shape.

Source your Trillion stone here.

Fancy Cuts

Whilst there is a long list of different cuts and shapes for gemstones, sometimes lapidaries like to think outside the box and create untraditional cuts to maximize color and sparkle.

Source a gemstone here.


Birthstone Jewellery

Birthstones are incredibly popular when it comes to picking out jewellery for ourselves or a loved one. It gives instant meaning to the piece by signifying the month we were born. The story behind the origination of birthstones dates back to the breastplate of Aaron, which was adorned with twelve different gemstones, representing the signs of the zodiac and 12 Israeli tribes. Since then, the National Association of Jewelers has created a modern list for the different months and birthstones. Each stone has an incredibly rich history and symbolism to different civilizations and time periods.

At Anpé Atelier Cph we use semi-precious and precious gemstones with a high hardness on the Mohs Scale. Using these stones that are well suited for fine jewellery ensures that we are creating pieces, that will last a lifetime and more.

Read our blog post on “The Colorful World Of Gemstones,” to get more information and facts on the different stones.

January: Tsavorite

The January birthstone is garnet, and thereunder tsavorite. Tsavorites were discovered in 1967 in Tanzania and range from varying deep to light green hues. With a hardness of 7.5, they are similar to emeralds, but are much more durable and brilliant and has no inclusions.

Shop the Harita ring.

February: Amethyst

The February birthstone is Amethyst. These stones comes in a variety of purple tones. They have a hardness of 7 and below, meaning they aren’t as durable as other stones. At Anpé we work with precious gemstones that have a high hardness on the Mohs Scale, as they are much more resitant to scratches and thereby everyday wear. Amethysts can be found in a range of places such as Sri Lanka, Brazil and Siberia.

Design your own piece of jewellery here.

March: Aquamarine

The March birthstone is the beautiful Aquamarine. This stone is sourced from various places – Sri Lanka and Madagascar amongst others. Aquamarine is the latin word for seawater, which fits its stunning light, crystal blue color perfectly. It has a hardness of 7.5-8, making it a perfect, durable ring that will last a lifetime.

Shop Malene Aquamarine 3.5 ring.

April: Diamond

The April birthstone is the classic diamond. Diamonds are a true symbol of deep love, as they have been used in engagement and wedding bands for years. Most natural diamonds have ages between 1-3.5 billion years and is the hardest material on the Mohs Scale.

Shop Josephine Diamond ring.

May: Emerald

The May birthstone is the prized Emerald. This stone certainly has been a cherished stone throughout history to many different civilizations. The price of emerald is high – in fact depending on size, it can be two to three times as valuable as a diamond. Holding a hardness of 7.5-8 on the Mohs scale, it is a hard stone, but emeralds also often comes with many inclusions, that can make them quite fragile.

Shop Malene Emerald 3.5 ring.

June: Pearl

The June birthstone is the pearl. June actually has two other stones that represent its month, which are Alexandrite and Moonstone. Pearls have been treasured for thousands of years and have become a classic piece of jewellery for one’s collection. They come in all shapes, sizes and colors.

Design your own piece of pearl jewellery.

July: Ruby

The July birthstone is the royal ruby. Rubies have been the symbol of royalty for centuries and ranges from pink to blood-red hues. Rubies are made of corundum – same as sapphires. It reaches a 9.0 for hardness on the Mohs Scale making it very durable – exactly like sapphires.

Design your own ruby ring.

August: Spinel

The August birthstone is Spinel. The name is said to come from the latin word for thorn, as spinel’s are normally found in sharp crystal forms. Spinel reaches 8 on the Mohs scale, making it a very hard and durable gemstone. They come in various colors ranging from red, pink, blue, lavender/violet, dark green, brown, black or colorless.

Shop Anduru ring.

September: Sapphire

The September birthstone is the effervescent sapphire. Most people believe that sapphires only come in a rich blue color, however this is far from the truth. Sapphires come in all the colors of the rainbow, and can even come as color changing or bi-colored. A majority of Anpé’s designs use an array of different colored sapphires. It is certainly one of our favorite stones and holds a solid 9 on the Mohs scale – making it the second hardest and most durable gemstone in the world.

Shop Kaha Kirana ring.

October: Tourmaline

The October birthstone is tourmaline, along with opal. Tourmalines were first discovered off the coast of West Italy, however they can be found in Madagascar, Brazil, the United States and the Middle East. The gemstone comes in a variety of colors, however pink and green is the most popular color for jewellery. Tourmalines have a hardness of 7.5 on the Mohs scale.

Shop Pici Mala ring or create your own version.

November: Citrine

The November birthstone is Citrine. Anpé Atelier has not currently designed any pieces with Citrine, however it does bode a yellow, brown and orange color. Citrine was very popular in the 19th century for many Art Deco jewellery designs, however it is used far less now as it is a very common and cheaper stone.

December: Zircon

The December birthstone is zircon, along with tanzanite and turquoise. Zircon is the oldest mineral on earth and Madagascar, Sri Lanka and other places. It has a hardness of up to 7.5 on the Mohs scale. Zircon is quite rare, making it a popular stone to use in fine jewellery and comes in a variety of colors.

Design your own piece of Zircon jewellery.

How To Build Your Own Fine Jewellery Collection

Buying fine jewellery is a long term investment, and if you’re looking to start a jewellery collection, don’t settle for the most affordable choice. When picking jewellery, you’ll definitely want high quality, and that only comes with fine jewellery. It is more expensive indeed, but it is worth every penny.

Fine jewellery is used to describe jewellery made out of precious metals and often times it consists precious and semi-precious gemstones as well. At Anpé Atelier we use only solid gold in 14kt and 18kt, which are hard metals, that won’t break with normal wear. If something should happen to your piece, the hard metal makes it is easy to repair and rework.

While solid gold pieces can be expensive, it is well worth the investment to have something stunning that lasts a lifetime, and can be passed down through generations. On top of that, it more than holds the value throughout time.

Here are some ways to start your own personal fine jewellery collection (but really, there are no rules, so go nuts, if you’re all comfortable):

1. Know what you like and don’t mind other people’s opinion
Everyone’s taste is different from each other, and the fun part about building a fine jewellery collection and investing in high quality pieces is, that you can wear it every day and be all happy about it, when glancing down at it.

2. Start off with a small piece first
Just to get started and to feel the difference between having a fine jewellery piece and a fashion jewellery piece. 

3. Go after something, that matches your style from the beginning
And choose something that you can see yourself wear for many years! Style and taste is different from person to person, and only you will know, what matches you and your colorful self. 

4. Wish for jewellery for special occasions
A great way to slowly build your own personal fine jewellery collection is to wish for fine jewellery for special occasions, such as birthdays, holidays, graduations and anniversaries. Having a special moment attached to a piece of jewellery brings more incentive to wear and show it off, as well as keep it for a lifetime. 

5. Treat yourself
And speaking of special occasions, treat yourself with fine jewellery to celebrate yourself. Fine jewellery doesn’t require a special occasion or someone else giving it to you. It can also be amazing to treat yourself with a special piece – just because you deserve it, have reached a personal goal in your life, gone through a hard time or simply because you’re in love with a piece and want to make yourself happy with it.

6. Mix and match
Depending on your style, try to find pieces that you can wear together! Find rings that look great next to each other or stacked on top of each other so you can pair them wherever you go, and whenever you feel like it. Mixing and matching multiple earrings on your ear is also a great way to add some extra sparkle and color.

7. One of a kind
Once you have a few key pieces in your collection, start to venture towards a unique, one of a kind and stunning piece – maybe even a customized piece, you’re doing for yourself. Though this is an investment piece, it adds a stunning look to your style, and you can easily wear your unique pieces together with your other amazing jewellery pieces.

8. Add color
Don’t be afraid to add some color to your jewellery. Many people think that investing in fine jewellery means only gold and diamonds. At Anpé Atelier, diamonds come second to stunningly unique and colorful gemstones, primarily sapphires, tourmalines, tsavorites and spinels. The colors are truly endless for gemstones to choose from, meaning anyone can find a color that suits them. Colorful pieces are rare and unique in the fine jewellery industry, so investing in one will make for a great talking piece and something you won’t see anyone else having.

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